The Roast Quartet

by Nick Mangigian

With Thanksgiving only a week away, it's official: we're in feast season. There is no better balance between abundance, deliciousness, and sneaky economy than putting an awesome roast in the oven for your guests.

The holy quartet of roasts, in our opinion, is as follows: 

Prime Rib: The most decadent of them all. We recommend about one pound per person if opting for bone-in, and we are always happy to take the bones off and tie them back on (a process known as "Chicago-ing") if you ask. The absolute best way to cook this is a reverse sear, which takes time but is foolproof if you have an instant read thermometer. Our dedicated meatmongers would love to talk you through this. The important thing to remember is that medium rare, or even medium, beats rare on prime rib-- you want that fat to render!

Filet Mignon: The king of steaks, and deceptively easy. If you have a gas grill, there is no better way to cook one of those, although the oven/broiler combination is a good one too. 8oz of meat per person is a good rule of thumb, and you can either reverse sear this, or start it off hot to get nice color and then finish at lower heat until you've reached a final temp of 130 for medium rare.

Chicken: For three adults, or two adults and two kids, a roast chicken is a wonderful, comforting meal, and you can move mountains with two chickens. About an hour and 10 minutes in the oven at 450 is a bulletproof way to get crispy, golden skin and succulent meat that temps at 160.

Turkey: Everybody fears the biggest, baddest bird of them all (it was almost our national bird!), but turkey is really just a massive chicken. You'll want to treat it more gently to get it up to temp, and then blast it at the end to brown the skin.

The three biggest favors you can do with yourself on any roast, though, are the following:

• An instant-read thermometer is your friend! If you have one of these, and the internet, there is never any doubt about what temp you want to cook your beautiful piece of meat to.

• A preparatory dry brine makes a MASSIVE difference on how juicy and delicious your roast will turn out. As a rule of thumb: ¾ tsp of salt per pound of meat, and half that amount of black pepper, will lead to a memorably awesome roast.

• Let the roast rest! The bigger the piece of meat, the longer the rest, but generally speaking 10 minutes is a good amount to keep things juicy. You get about 7 or 8 degrees of carryover cooking during the rest period, so it's important to pull your roast off the heat before it's reached your goal temperature, and to let it rest far away from the heat source (ie, not on the grill or in a turned-off oven).

Roast easy, friends, and as always-- we are glad to help talk you through your next cooking adventure!

Cook Like a Monger: Pan Seared Duck Breast with Couscous

by Matt Gruber

Quack quack, quack quack quack honk... Ahem, excuse me I forget sometimes not everyone can read duck - but duck is exactly what we are cooking this week. Never in my adult life did I think I'd return to duck. It was a dish served to a young me, beer can style, shotgun pellets on the side. Absolutely horrified and having an immature palate I had no idea what I was consuming. This was all just normal cabin life at the time; you know, ants in the syrup are just added protein vibes. I always tell this story and it is funny to look back on, but I figured duck was spoiled for me forever.

Flash forward to a little local butcher shop sourcing humanely raised, locally sourced, delicious duck (hold the shotgun pellets) - my mind was changed.

It's speculated that long before everyone's favorite dinner option was chicken, duck was the real star. The Chinese domesticated ducks some 4000 years ago and started the legacy of this delicious dinner option which now offers so many different directions, spins, and takes on countless dishes. Trying to not do duck à l'orange as a tired cliché of the 1960's, I wanted to still incorporate orange, but add a little rosemary and make a nice finishing sauce to add on top while keeping the duck simple with salt and pepper. To accompany this, I've also whipped up a side of Les Moulins Mahjoub hand rolled couscous with almonds and cranberry. A perfect dish for a perfect fall day.

1 Duck breast
1 knob of butter
1/2 cup Dried almonds
1/2 cup Dried cranberries
1 cup couscous
1 1/2 cup chicken stock for couscous
3/4 cup chicken stock for sauce
1 tbsp cumin
1 tbsp cinnamon
1 orange plus zest
2 sprigs rosemary
1 tbsp onion, minced

Sauce
Add 3/4 cup chicken stock, knob of butter, juice of one large orange plus zest, and rosemary sprigs to the saucepan and bring to a boil. Once a rolling boil is reached, reduce heat and simmer until thick. (should thicken out by the end of all the cooking)

Couscous

Lightly toast almonds, cranberries, and onions prior to adding in chicken stock and bringing to a boil. Add in 1 cup couscous, slightly cover and reduce heat- wait until couscous has absorbed all the chicken stock.

Duck Breast

Start your duck breast skin side down on a cold cast iron or your favorite heavy bottom pan, heat set to medium/medium-low. Cook for 5-6 minutes or until golden crispy skin. Flip over and cook for 2 minutes, remove from pan and let rest for another 3 minutes.

Plate and enjoy!

Cook Like a Monger: Risotto

by Anna Glassman-Kaufman

We’re going back to the basics this week with a classic risotto recipe. Don’t let risotto intimidate you. It may be a bit of a labor intensive process, but it never disappoints. Master this basic recipe and get ready to customize with seasonal produce and herbs, new stocks/broths, and unique cheeses.

Serves 2-3

Ingredients:  

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 

¼ cup shallot, minced

1-2 cloves garlic, minced  

1 cups carnaroli (or arborio) rice  

3 cups chicken stock  

½ cup white wine, we recommend chardonnay  

½ cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, freshly grated, plus extra for garnish 

1 tablespoon unsalted butter  

Salt and pepper to taste 

Method 

1. Bring chicken stock to a simmer in a medium saucepan. 

2. Meanwhile, in a large heavy bottomed pot, sauté shallot and garlic in olive oil on low/medium heat until soft, but not browned. Season with salt and pepper.  

3. Add rice and stir with a wooden spoon, until the rice is evenly coated with olive oil. Continue to stir for one minute until the rice has a nutty aroma.  

4. Add the white wine and stir constantly until it is all absorbed into the rice.  

5. Add about ½ cup of simmering stock and stir until nearly all of the liquid is absorbed. Then, add another ½ cup of stock and stir. Continue this process until all the stock is added (15-20 min) and risotto is al dente, creamy, and a little bit soupy.  

6. Turn off heat and stir in grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and butter.  

7. Garnish with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, more grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, and freshly cracked black pepper. Serve immediately.  

Thai Beef Salad

by Austin Coe Butler

This recipe is inspired by a Thai dish called Yum Nua, which quickly became a favorite in our house. As it relies on produce that can be grown well even in greenhouses like cucumbers and cherry tomatoes, this Thai beef salad is always satisfying whether it’s been grilled over charcoal on a summer’s day or pan seared on a winter’s night. 

The dressing makes this recipe sing. It’s similar to a Vietnamese nuoc cham, a tangy, salty sauce of lime juice, sugar, and fish sauce, but it has the addition of cilantro stems, garlic, and chilis for an herbaceous heat. Unlike parsley or oregano, cilantro stems have almost as much flavor in them as the leaves, and when cut finely or crushed, they’re delightful to eat and not stringy at all. Don’t be afraid of the fish sauce! While this may seem like an unfamiliar ingredient, think of it as a southeast Asian worcestershire sauce. It has a deeply satisfying salty and umami quality that compliments and accentuates meat, vegetables, and, a personal favorite of mine, mushrooms. You can find the Red Boat brand fish sauce in many coops and high-end grocery stores, or a variety of brands at your nearest Asian grocery store. I prefer the Squid brand (it doesn’t contain squid, it’s just called that!)

For the beef, you can use whatever cut you like, but I prefer using longer, thinner cuts like skirt, bavette, flank, or flat iron, all of which we readily carry in the meat case. These cuts benefit from a quick sear and cutting against the grain. If you don’t eat beef, you could substitute pork chops or chicken thighs to great success.

For the salad: 

1 lb. beef cut of your choice, but preferably longer, thinner cuts like skirt, bavette, flank, or flat iron. 

1 small red onion, sliced thinly

1 English cucumber, deseeded and sliced thinly on a bias

1 pint of cherry tomatoes, halved

Mixed greens

¼ c. cilantro leaves

¼ c. mint leaves

Crushed peanuts to garnish

For the dressing:

1 tbsp cilantro stems

1 to 2 cloves garlic

3 tbsp fish sauce

3 tbsp lime juice

2 Thai bird’s eye chilis

1 tbsp neutral oil

2 tsp sugar

Salt to taste

Directions

1. At least 30 minutes before you plan to cook the steak, pull it from the refrigerator to temper it and season generously with salt.

2. Prepare the dressing. Add the cilantro stems, garlic, Thai chilis, sugar, and just a pinch of salt to a mortar and pestle and work them into a paste. You can also use a food processor. Next, add the fish sauce, lime juice, and oil and stir to combine. Taste for seasoning and adjust accordingly. It should be balanced between the tart acidity of the limes, the salty umami of the fish sauce, and the herbaceous heat of the aromatics.

3. Prepare the base of your salad. Halve the cucumber and remove the seeds with a spoon, then cut half moons at an angle. If you want to take the edge off the raw red onion, you can place it in a bowl of ice water for a few minutes. I like to lightly salt the tomatoes to draw some of the juices out and add them to the salad dressing, contributing some of their sweetness. Combine all the vegetables including the mixed greens, cilantro leaves, and mint in a large bowl.

4. Over high heat, grill or pan sear the beef to your desired doneness. For medium rare, that’s about 4 minutes each side. Allow the beef to rest for ten minutes.

5. Once rested, cut the beef into strips against the grain. This may involve first cutting the beef along the grain into shorter sections and then cutting against the grain. I like to cut the beef at a 45º for wide strips.

6. Dress the salad to your liking, reserving a few spoonfuls of the dressing. You can either add the beef directly to the salad when you toss it, or you can serve it on top of the tossed salad.

7. Garnish with more cilantro and mint leaves, the crushed peanuts, and a final, generous spoonful or two of the reserve dressing over the beef. This salad is great warm, room temperature, or cold, so serve it however you’d like!

Cook Like a Cheesemonger: Cheeseboard Dinner

by Maura Rice

One of the things you hear most as a cheesemonger is something along the lines of: “OHMAHGERD, you’re so lucky, you must eat cheese all the time!” And while it’s true that we do sample our wares behind the counter from time to time (it is our professional obligation, after all), most cheesemongers I know… don’t actually eat that much cheese at home. I know! I know! Stay with me here.

They say that most chefs don’t spend more than five minutes cooking for themselves at home. It seems to me that the same goes for cheesemongers. If I do eat cheese at home, it’s 100% going to be a utensil-free, hand-to-mouth situation. Lately however, I’ve been thinking—I’ve made countless cheeseboards for family and friends over the years (it is, without a doubt, the coolest part about being a cheesemonger), but I’ve never extended the same luxury to myself.

If it were 2015, this post would undoubtedly be titled #treatyoself. Thankfully it’s not, and as mature adults we can appreciate the importance of self care, which in this case looks like making yourself a kick**s cheeseboard for dinner.

“Recipe” (feeds 1-???)

3 cheeses (The traditional school of thought says that you need a cow, a sheep, and a goat cheese—personally, I say choose what you like. In this case that was: Pleasant Ridge Reserve, Camembert dell’Alta Langa, and Blakesville Sunny Ridge. 2-4 oz per person is a good rule.)

Something sweet (Fresh fruit, dried fruit, chocolate, honey, jams—all good options)

Something sour (Pickles are great on cheese and charcuterie boards alike. The acid cuts through the rich, fatty flavors of meat and cheese. It’s like a breath of fresh air for your palate.)

Something salty (Salami, prosciutto, nuts, you get it)

Garnish (Garnishing is my favorite part of building a cheeseboard. It brings an often beige plate to life, providing important contrast, and generally making you look like you know what you’re doing. Any greenery goes a long way—try to fill in gaps in your composition. Blueberries and dried fruit are also great for this purpose.)

Composition:

Creating a cheese or charcuterie board is all about balance and contrast. As a general rule, I try to repeat colors or elements more than once, but no more than three times (see: blueberries, cornichons, strawberries, etc). This creates a balanced effect without looking like a garnish explosion happened on the board. Use large pieces like your cheese wedges to anchor the smaller elements. Try to have some extreme dark (jam, dried figs, blueberries) and light (cheese!) shades going on.

Importantly: when it comes to entertaining, show your guests how to consume the board. Cut large hunks into wedges or slices, stick a knife in large hunks of cheese, pour jam right on the board—diners are often timid about these things, so give them an excuse to dive in and get messy.

Lastly, know that there is no wrong answer when it comes to building a cheeseboard. Let your intuition and creativity guide you. I’ve seen cheez-its, kimchi, and jalapeños used on cheeseboards to great effect. Who’s to say that Spam, Oreos, and dragonfruit wouldn’t be fabulous in the right context? (And if you do make a board with these elements, PLEASE tag us.) Happy building–and more importantly, happy eating!

Cook Like a Monger: Coconut Coriander Pasta with KariKari Chili Crisp

by Austin Coe Butler 

If you’re ever wondering what to gift the foodie in your life, may I suggest a subscription service of a gustatory nature? I’ve been gifted bean club memberships, artisanal salami subscriptions, and monthly coffee shipments, all to my great delight and surprise. They’re a great way to be exposed to new and different foods you may not have encountered in your well-worn eating habits. Most recently I was gifted a subscription to Sfoglini, a New York-based pasta manufacturer that is best known for inventing a “new” pasta shape, cascateli or waterfalls. A recipe for pasta with a coconut coriander sauce came along with that month’s pasta and I thought I’d give it a try. While the dish turned out beautiful and quite tasty, I couldn’t help but feel like something was missing, and it was only the other night when the spring weather stirred me to make it again that I realized what it needed to shine: the sweet, garlic-y heat of chili crisp oil. 

Chili crisps are “having a moment.” For the uninitiated, chili crisp usually refers to hot oil that is poured over chilis with other spices and aromatics to create a silken, fiery red oil that is good on literally everything. It’s the Sriracha of the 2020s. The Chinese Lao Gan Ma brand, with a stern looking woman on the front, exploded in popularity several years ago, and now it seems like everyone and their mother is making artisanal chili crisp. The Pura Macha brand salsa macha we sell in the shop, a Mexican chili crisp with lots of smoky guajillos, chipotles, nuts, coffee, and fruit, is exceptional and can turn something as plain as steamed chicken breast into a transcendent culinary experience. 

We recently brought a new chili crisp into the shop, Seattle-based KariKari, a Japanese-style chili crisp. What sets KariKari apart is that it is packed with golden slices of crispy fried shallots and garlic, which most chili crisps tragically skimp on. Many of the staff members, including yours truly, will openly admit to eating half a jar of it in one sitting, whether it’s paired with a cheese like Manchego, a decadent triple creme like Brillat Savarin, or just on plain noodles or a baguette. This chili crisp was what that pasta dish needed, and it totally transformed it, bringing all the flavors into balance with its sweet heat and leaving me craving more. KariKari chili crisp is on promotion this weekend, so stop into the shop to try it for yourself!

This pasta is an easy weeknight meal and can easily be made vegan with the substitution of coconut oil for butter.

Ingredients:

1 ½ tbsp coriander, toasted, and ground

4 tbsp unsalted butter

½ lb. or 8 oz. spinach

1 cup fresh or frozen peas

1 large yellow onion, sliced thinly

6 cloves garlic, minced or grated

1 lb. package of pasta, preferably a shape like rigatoni, busiate, or penne. I use cavatappi here.

1 in. knob ginger, minced or grated

1 14 oz. can unsweetened coconut milk

Cilantro leaves to taste

KariKari chili crisp to taste

Directions:

1. Bring a large pot of abundantly salted water to a boil while you prepare your mise.

2. In a Dutch oven over medium-high heat, melt 2 tablespoons of butter. Add the spinach and saute for just a minute or two until it begins to wilt. Then add the peas and heat them through, just another minute or two. Reserve the peas and spinach in a small bowl.

3. In the same pot, add the remaining butter. Saute the onion until translucent and yielding, about 5 to 7 minutes. You’re not looking to develop any color, just soften the onions.

4. Add the ground coriander and bloom the spices until fragrant, about a minute.

5. Add the garlic and ginger and saute for another minute. Your kitchen should now smell amazing.

6. Finally, add the coconut milk and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, and simmer the sauce while you cook your pasta.

7. Cook the pasta until 2 to 3 minutes before the time listed for al dente according to the package. My package of cavatappi said 9 minutes, so I removed the pasta at 6 minutes. The pasta will still be raw in the middle, but we’ll finish cooking it in the sauce so the flavors can marry.

8. Add the pasta to the Dutch oven with the sauce along with a ladle of pasta water. Continue to stir the pasta and test it until it is cooked al dente or to your liking. A nice sauce should have formed in the pot from the addition of the starchy, salty pasta water. If it looks dry, add a half ladle of pasta water at a time. If it looks too watery, allow the sauce to reduce for a minute or two. Check for seasoning one last time, adjusting the salt as necessary.

9. Serve, garnishing generously with cilantro, and a generous spoonful of two of glowing KariKari Chili Crisp.

Cook Like a Meatmonger: Lamb T-Bones with Blackberry Pan Sauce

by Matt Gruber

Lamb. Now, I'm not talking about The Treaty of Versailles, I'm talking about the delicious Ovis aries, or as we humble meatmongers refer to it: lamb. Mutton was a staple in the early 1900's but declined after WW2. Some time around 2010 the younger version (lamb as we know it today) began to gain popularity.

I was by no means raised on this variety of meat and never looked beyond the widely-consumed gyro meat. While that is a whole different scrumptious beast in and of itself (I have an adventurous at home recipe that the world isn't ready for yet... at least in writing) our cuts of lamb are the sleeper hit of the meat case. Compared to beef or pork, lamb has an earthy, rich, and sometimes gamey flavor, however all this is balanced with a slight sweetness. From a simple gremolata on a sirloin roast to a mustard and pistachio-crusted rack of lamb, we love to experiment with all kinds of preparations. In the spirit of Easter and spring, I created a wonderful blackberry pan sauce for some lamb t-bones. Paired with some roasted carrots, radishes, and mashed potatoes, I think this dish is perfect for any date night or holiday meal.

Ingredients:

2 Lamb T-bones per person

1 splash heavy cream

1 spoonful sour cream

1 sprig Fresh rosemary

1 tbsp ground thyme

2 tbsp dried oregano

15 blackberries cut in half (I used quite a bit due to my love of blackberries)

1 knob of butter

1/4 cup full body red wine, I used Leese-Fitch

1 cup chicken stock

2 russet potatoes

1 bag rainbow carrots

Directions:

1. Season t-bones liberally with salt and pepper up to 48 hours in advance.

2. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

3. Soak potatoes in cold water for up to 4 hours to remove starch. Once soaked, cut into 2" cubes.

4. Toss carrots and radishes in olive oil, seasoning with thyme and oregano, plus salt and pepper. Lay on a sheet tray and roast for 25-30 minutes until browned.

5. Boil potatoes in salted water until soft, 15-20 minutes, then mash with sour and heavy cream. Season to taste.

6. When carrots are 10 minutes out from being done, preheat your favorite cast iron or heavy-bottomed skillet on medium, sear t-bones for 3.5 - 4 minutes per side for medium rare.

7. Remove t-bones from the pan, setting them aside to rest. Add a knob of butter, wine, stock, blackberries, and rosemary sprig. Reduce until a spoon dragged across the pan leaves a streak in the liquid that stays a moment before vanishing.

8. Plate lamb and veggies, drizzling with pan sauce. Enjoy!