Gotthelf Slow Food Emmentaler

By Austin Coe Butler

Weighing in at a truly colossal 225 pounds, the Gotthelf Slow Food Emmentaler is by far the biggest cheese to have graced our shop. That’s almost three times as heavy as a wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano or Gruyère. It rightfully deserves its stately place in our cheese vault that you can see upon entering the shop. But what’s even more impressive than its stature is its fidelity to traditional practices that make it a delicious piece of living history.

One of the immediate distinguishing features of the cheese is the gorgeous silhouette on top that recounts the tale Die Käserei der Vehfreude, or “The Cheese Factory in Vehfreude,” by Jeremias Gotthelf, a Swiss pastor and writer, whose name the cheese bears in his honor. In the story, the fictional village of Vehfreude is badly in need of a school, but instead constructs a cheese factory to compete economically with its neighboring villages. Vehfreude is set in the Emmen valley (Emmentaler literally means to “someone or something from the Emmen valley) and the cheese the villagers make is, naturally, Emmentaler. Among the comic episodes are market riots over the price of milk, a young woman who believes she is practicing witchcraft being scared straight by a villager dressed as Beelzebub, and the story Felix and Änneli, two star crossed lovers of differing classes. It’s a tale of the greed of man and the triumph of love. And also cheese! The wheel also carries details of the heraldic bear of Bern, Edelweisses, and the Swiss cross at the base of a Blockbau, a traditional Emmental farmhouse. Circling the wheel is a line of cows being led by a cowherd symbolizing the transhumance to the Alpine dairy.

Husband and wife Bernard Meier and Marlies Zaugg make Gotthelf Emmentaler just like the villagers of Vehfreude did back in the 17th century. Isolated in the mountains of their small village, Hüpfenboden, they make just two wheels of cheese a day. That 225 pounds of cheese is condensed from more than 1,100 liters of milk(!). It’s made using kettle whey cultures, wherein the whey from the previous day’s batch of cheese is added to the present day’s milk, carrying over the cultures (like a sourdough starter). Once the cheese is made, it’s taken to Gourmino’s cellars to age under the watchful eyes of the affineurs, tending to the wheels by washing and flipping them. In recognition of the traditional practices this cheese follows, the Slow Food Presidia bestowed an award on traditional Emmentaler.

The struggle to open a 225 pound wheel of cheese is one of the greatest a cheesemonger can face. Certain exigencies immediately presented themselves and could not be ignored. First of all, the cheese was too large to store in any of our refrigerators, which meant that after a day of tempering, we needed to break it into more manageable pieces. The weight meant that this cheese had to be handled by three people, which was further complicated when we realized we could not get it through the door to the cheese shop! Instead we had to right the wheel up on its rounded edge, precariously balancing it on a flatbed to pull it into the shop, and during our first attempt to do this it stubbornly rolled to the floor with a colossal thud. Cutting a cheese this big is also tricky. Driving a chisel knife through the cheese require my full weight, and, normally, after this initial cut a wire could be dragged through it to easily split it. However, we were out of our larger, longer wires, so it had to be cut with the chisel knife all the way through, a more “historic” way to cut a historic cheese. But as soon as the cheese was cracked an incredible smell rose up and the “eyes” or holes in the cheese begins to “cry.”

What does a two hundred pound wheel of cheese taste like? Rich brown butter, toasted cashew, wheat bread, a fresh potato loaf. Even for those that dislike Emmentaler, Gotthelf lacks that distinct “Swiss-y” flavor that is imparted by the Proprionibacteria, the bacteria responsible for producing the signature “eyes” or holes in Emmentaler. Many of us have been exposed to bad “Swiss” cheese as a result of the nefarious business practices of the Swiss cheese Cartels, and the imagine of a deli slice of pallid, plasticine “Swiss” cheese comes to mind. It’s pleasantly surprising then that Gotthelf Emmental is dense, with a cashew-like creaminess and studded with tyrosine crystals while still having the pliability that makes it a phenomenal melter. It is one of the finest expressions of Emmentaler, and an urgent reminder of what makes real Emmentaler such a special cheese whose traditions are worth preserving in the era of globalization.

This promotion couldn’t come at a better time—last week, Gotthelf Emmentaler won a Super Gold at the World Champion Cheese Competition in Trondheim! Stop into the shop to try the best “Swiss” cheese in the world!

ACS Winners Pt. 4: Redhead Creamery

by Austin Coe Butler

Next up in our continuing series on American Cheese Society Award Winners is another Minnesota native, Redhead Creamery! Redhead won in the following categories:

3rd Place – Cheese Curds – Ridiculously Good Cheddar Cheese Curds

Redhead Creamery is based in Brooten, MN, about 120 miles northwest of the the Twin Cities. The creation of the creamery was the fulfillment of Alise Sjostrum’s (resident redhead) childhood dream of becoming a cheesemaker. After completing a 4-H program in Wisconsin, Alise returned to the family farm and announced, at the age of sixteen, that she was going to stay on the family farm and open a creamery. After acquiring a decade of experience working, studying, and traveling from Wisconsin to Vermont, Switzerland to Brazil, Alise and her husband Lucas returned to the family farm and got down to work. They’ve been producing farmstead, artisan cheese since 2013, winning awards along the way. (In addition to cheese, Redhead was also recently given a grant to research and produce an alcoholic beverage from fermented whey!)

We carry quite a few cheeses from Redhead Creamery at the moment. Their Little Lucy Brie is a bright, creamy American Brie that is so adorable (and delicious) it demands to be on every cheeseboard. We also carry their North Fork Munster, a pungent, gooey, washed rind, and their Red Temper Cheddar, which is rubbed down in a chipotle pepper and honey paste and brought home a blue ribbon at last year’s State Fair!

And then there are those aptly named, award winning cheese curds. They’ve got that perfect cheddar sharpness and cheese curd squeak that just them as easy to polish off as a bag of chips. With the State Fair just a few days away, it’s the perfect time to pick up some cheese curds! You can fry them, serve them in poutine, or, if you’ve taken one of our mozzarella classes, you can make cheddared mozzarella!? All Redhead Creamery cheeses are 15% off this weekend, so stop by the cheese counter to try some and see how good ridiculously good cheese tastes!

Rancho Gordo

Austin Coe Butler

While paying eight dollars for a pound of dried beans might be a 300% increase from your supermarket beans, it’s worth it. Hear me out. Dried beans—like canned tomatoes, vinegar, and rice—are a pantry staple worth splurging on. Quality dried heirloom beans have more flavor, better texture, and cook more consistently than those supermarket beans that have been gathering dust for years. And when it comes to dried heirloom beans, there’s one name beloved by celebrity chefs and humble home cooks alike: Rancho Gordo.

Rancho Gordo exploded in popularity at the start of the pandemic. Membership to their Bean Club skyrocket to a waitlist of 40,000 people that takes two to three years to get into. These are dried beans we’re talking about. But cooks in the know have sought out Rancho Gordo beans for years.

Rancho Gordo was founded by Steve Sando in 2001 after a career burnout. With no agricultural background, he took to growing heirloom tomatoes (his first love), but soon switched to growing beans in his Napa fields and became enamored with the genetic diversity and flavors of heirloom beans. Rancho Gordo’s big break came when chef Thomas Keller began serving their beans in his restaurants Per Se and The French Laundry.

Sando did not expect his beans to become the doyennes of fine dining. He had sold the beans as a health food that did a social good. The early aughts were a time when traditional European foods were being discovered and celebrated in America while the traditional foods of the Americas were being lost. Less than favorable trading conditions for our neighbors across the southern border encouraged the industrial farming of hybrid varieties of crops for international trade, which led to the extinction of countless heirloom varieties. A big part of Rancho Gordo’s ethos is building connections and preserving genetic diversity and local food traditions like heirloom beans, spices, herbs, chocolate, and even pottery, best exemplified by their Rancho Gordo–Xoxoc Project. Sando discovered that among the health, story, and flavor of his products, flavor mattered most to people.

Like most vegetable cookery, it comes down to treating the ingredient right. Give a little love (read fat and salt) to a humble bean and it transforms into an incredible thing. Here are two simple guides to cooking beans, one according to the Rancho Gordo Manner, the other following the Primary Beans cooking matrix.

We have an incredible variety of Rancho Gordo beans at the moment, all of which are 15% off this weekend. If you get overwhelmed looking at our selection, here’s my advice: buy a few that just look beautiful or sound good to you. They’ll last you well past the winter, and as the cooler days of autumn settle in, the time to cook a big pot of beans on a lazy Sunday will come and those beans will be in your pantry just waiting to make your day.

Royal Corona Bean – A gargantuan white bean that demands to be the star of a dish. With a thick skin and creamy interior, they’re perfect in a dish like gigantes plaki or pickled.

Santa Maria Pinquinto Beans – These beans are the secret of California’s Central Coast cooking. In culinary establishments like The Hitching Post II, you’ll find Santa Maria tri-tip grilled over oak served with a side of Pinquinto beans. Treat them like a Pinto bean.

Santanero Negro Delgado – These small, glittering black beans from Oaxaca are packed with flavor and create a broth so rich and flavorful they are known as Siete Caldos, Seven Broths. Part of Rancho Gordo’s Xoxoc Project.

Marcella – When Steve Sando asked Marcella Hazan what bean she missed most about Italy she replied that it was the humble Sorana, a variety of cannellini bean. Sando grew and named this bean in her honor. This delicate, vanishingly thin skinned white bean is perfect in soups, casseroles, or dips.

Flageolet – These jade green beans are white beans that are harvested prematurely giving them the uncanny flavor of fresh green beans, even in the dead of winter. Flageolet are a celebrated pairing with lamb, making them a holiday staple, and their fresh flavor makes them ideal in salads.

Chickpeas – If you’ve only ever had canned chickpeas, get ready for a surprise. Not only do dried chickpeas have superior flavor, their texture is exceptional.

Ceci Neri (Black Garbanzo) – A gorgeous Italian heirloom that is smaller, firmer, and nuttier than your typical chickpea.

Alubia Blanca – These small but mighty white beans are ubiquitous in Spanish cooking. A perfect substitute for Navy beans.

Borlotti Lamon – Borlotti are the most celebrated bean of Italy, and among Borlotti beans those grown in Lamon, near Venice, are hailed as the best. They’re the ideal cranberry bean and perfect in Pasta e Fagioli.

Cassoulet – Also known as Tarbais beans, these are the iconic French beans that have become synonymous with that rib-sticking classic of provincial French cuisine: Cassoulet. But they’re more versatile than just one dish! Try them anywhere you would a white bean or just make a simple pot of them.

Domingo Rojo – The perfect bean for red beans, this bean not only is rich in flavor and has a dense-creamy texture, the bean broth it creates coats every grain of rice in a decadent sauce. Substitute for kidney beans.

French-Style Green Lentils – These quick cooking lentils are the perfect pantry staple. Packed full of nutrition and endlessly versatile, you’re always just fifteen minutes away from a meal with these in your larder.

Mayocoba – A pale yellow Peruvian bean that quite simply makes the best charro beans I’ve ever had. It turns ridiculously creamy while still retaining its shape.

Scarlet Runner – Gorgeous scarlet whorled beans that have a roasted chestnut and beefy flavor. These beans deserve to be the star of any dish.

Yellow Eye – A Northeastern staple traditionally used in Boston Baked Beans, these beans have an almost baked potato like texture and flavor when cooked. Versatile enough to be used in most occasions.

Plus, check out these amazing bean-focused recipes from our mongers & staff!

• Gigantes Plaki

• Mandarinquat Mojo Pork with Rancho Gordo Black Beans

• Pickled Royal Corona Beans