Serves 4-6 / Prep time 15 minutes / Cook time 30 minutes
Like so much of Italian gastronomy, there are many orthodoxies attached to risotto. A wooden spoon must be used. The rice must not only be stirred constantly, but in only one direction! As a result risotto has received a reputation as fussy and tedious. But I have found that risotto is an easy dish for the patient, and I personally enjoy unwinding in the kitchen with a glass of wine in hand.
There are risotto recipes that offer shortcuts like the use of a pressure cooker or the addition of a slurry, but I find those “time savers” lead to less flavor development. This recipe calls for two quarts of rich, full-fat chicken stock made to be reduced down into what is practically demi-glace. All those roasty, toasty flavors are concentrated into each grain of rice.
This dish can easily be scaled up or down, made vegetarian or even vegan with simple substitutions like vegetable stock, vegan butter, and nutritional yeast. Want to skip the wine? Substitute white balsamic for that same fruity acidity. What may surprise you is that the risotto is quite “soupy.” It should pool on the plate rather than form a stiff mass.
You will need:
500 g/1 package Principato di Lucedio Carnaroli Rice
2 qts. Chicken Stock (France 44 makes an excellent one)
Half a white onion or one whole shallot, minced to roughly the size of a grain of rice
1 cup dry white wine like Pinot Grigio or an unoaked Chardonnay (I used L’Agnostique Chardonnay, which, at $12.99 and for its quality, is an absolute steal.)
1 cup freshly grated Cravero Parmigiano Reggiano
A sachet (about 1 oz.) of dried mushrooms (Here I use dried Porcini)
450 grams/1 lb. of fresh mushrooms (Here I use a combination of crimini, shitake, and beech mushrooms. I mince the crimini to fill out the risotto and leave the shiitake and beech larger for texture. The only mushroom I would not recommend for risotto is Portobellos. Their large, dark gills stain the risotto an unappetizing color)
1 tbsp White balsamic or sherry vinegar
Flatleaf parsley
Extra virgin olive oil
Butter
Salt
Black or white pepper
Heat the oven to 425º F. Prepare your mushrooms by removing the stalks and brushing off any dirt with a paper towel or brush. Mince the majority of them while reserving some large pieces or clusters to roast off. Coat these roasting mushrooms in EVOO and salt. Roast for 15 to 20 minutes.
2. In a pot, bring the chicken stock to a simmer. Add the dried mushrooms, cut the heat, and cover to allow them to steep for five minutes. Remove the rehydrated mushrooms and mince, reserving them alongside the fresh mushrooms. I like to add the mushroom stalks and onion scraps to the stock at this point to minimize waste and maximize flavor, being sure to ladle the stock through a hand sieve to catch any debris.
3. In a large pan or saucier, melt a generous knob of butter (about 2 tbsp) and a “thread” of olive oil (about 2 tbsp) over medium-high heat. Add the minced onion or shallot and sweat. Once translucent, add the minced mushrooms and a pinch of salt. We want to drive out as much moisture as we can from the mushrooms. Scrape any bits you see sticking to the pan. I recommend a wooden spoon for this task. As an extension of your arm, it allows you to feel if something is sticking on the bottom of the pans and the ability to scrape it into delicious fond before it burns and without scratching your pans.
4. Add the rice to the pan and toast it. If the pan looks dry, add more EVOO. You will notice the grains turn translucent around the edges and a pleasant nutty aroma, about three or four minutes. Deglaze with the white wine, making sure to scrape up all that delicious fond on the bottom of the pot. Deglaze yourself with some wine at this point if you haven’t already.
5. At this point, the cook time depends on your comfort and confidence. I prefer to cook over a medium flame, which generally takes about 17 minutes or so. This step of the cooking process is often the most stressful for home cooks, but take a deep breath, bump your favorite retro Italian hits, and have a glass of wine. You are simply adding stock to the pan, stirring, and adding stock when the pan begins to dry. Once the stock has reduced, add another ladle or two and continue this process until the rice is cooked, about 17 minutes. If you run out of stock you can use hot water at this point—there’s plenty of flavor in the rice and sauce. You can also cook the risotto at a lower temperature if you feel like the stock is evaporating too quickly. Like pasta, risotto is best al dente, so I start checking the rice around the 14 minute mark by sampling a grain or two. It shouldn’t be crunchy or grainy, but toothsome. You should be able to feel the individual grains. Remember that it will continue cooking off the heat.
6. Off the heat, add any remaining remaining stock, a knob of cold butter, parsley, the Parmigiano Reggiano, and a thread of EVOO. Stir, then cover, cut the heat, and let sit for two minutes. It will look too wet, but trust in the process. After two minutes, remove the lid and return the heat to medium.
7. Now, MANTECARLO! (STIR IT!) Stir the risotto while shaking the pan back and forth. You should notice a rich sauce coalesce as the risotto thickens after just a minute or two. Add the white balsamic or sherry vinegar then serve immediately into warmed, shallow bowls or high sided plates—the benefits of a warmed dish cannot be overstated. A shake or two of the plate should level the risotto evenly. Top with the roasted mushrooms, Parmigiano Reggiano, parsley, and freshly cracked pepper. Buon appetito!
Have leftovers? Make some arancini by simply stuffing the balls of risotto with cubed Calabro whole milk mozzarella, rolling the balls in breadcrumbs and frying at 350º until golden brown. Ready to move on to the next level of risotto? Try Massimo Bottura’s mind-bending recipe for Risotto Cacio e Pepe.
Questions, comments, or cries for help about this recipe. cooking, or cheese at large? Ask your monger by sending an email to cheeseshop@france44.com.
