The Pairing: Carles Roquefort

Carles Roquefort + Nik Weis Riesling Kabinett

As cheesemongers, we love to wax poetic about our cheeses, about where they came from, what they mean to us, and why you’ll love them. It can be hard to keep all the information straight and sort through what we’ve told you, but if there’s anything to take away from this project or our shop, it’s this: Roquefort and Riesling are so darn good together. Maybe you have to be a blue cheese lover to enjoy Roquefort, but you only need to be a fan of crisp, acidic, delicious white wine to love Riesling.

Why we love the cheese

Maison Carles has been making Carles Roquefort since 1922. They are one of the smallest and most dedicated producers of this traditional cheese, using only delicious, herbaceous, buttery sheep milk from their own farm. Rich, slightly spicy, and speckled with crunchy crystals, this melt-in-your-mouth blue cheese is what blue cheese dreams are made of. If you’d like to learn more, click here.

Why we love the wine

Nik Weis Riesling Kabinett comes from the heart of the Mosel where it’s grown and crafted by a third-generation winemaker who’s been involved with the vineyards since he was a young boy. This Riesling has complex notes of tart lemons, sweet peaches, fresh melon and ripe tropical fruits. Right along the fruit notes are pops of minerality and earth, adding a lovely depth to this off-dry, acidic, gorgeous example of high quality Riesling.

Why we love the pairing

Riesling, especially when off-dry, is the perfect pairing for spice. Carles Roquefort has a surprising amount of prickly, zippy, spiciness. Not spice from chili, but piquantness from both the sheep’s milk and the strain of mold itself, Penicillium roqueforti. This Kabinett Riesling eases the cheese’s zip perfectly while the acidic richness in the cheese softens the Riesling’s acid just enough.

What else you should do with it

While we’re still in the throes of winter squash season, make an incredible roast squash dinner featuring Carles Roquefort crumbles, candied pecans, and spicy arugula, all paired with a glass of Nik Weis Riesling. Roast the squash for long enough to develop lots of caramelization and use some cumin and cinnamon to flavor. And don’t forget the flakey salt!

Gruyere 1655 + Oberto Dolcetto

by Sophia Stern

Why we love the cheese 

Gruyère is well known and well-loved for a reason, and we think the 1655 Gruyère is the best example out there. Fruity, savory, nutty, 1655 Gruyère is an excellent table cheese or pantry cheese to use for all your melty cheese needs.  

Why we love the wine 

Dolcetto is one of the lesser-known grapes of Piedmont, but a great varietal to get acquainted with. Fabio Oberto Dolcetto D’Alba is pleasantly acidic and food friendly. This Dolcetto is balanced by fruity aromas of forest berries, medium tannins, and a fuller body 

Why we love the pairing 

Like any good duo, the cheese and wine smooth out each other's rougher edges- the wine draws out the fruiter notes of the Gruyère, while the butteriness of the cheese rounds off the wine's tannins and acid.  

What else you should do with it  

This pairing screams to be used for French Onion Soup! Comte, from the French side of the Alps, is the cheese traditionally melted atop a bowl of this classic French dish, but Gruyère works just as well. The earthy, bright qualities of the Dolcetto will balance the decadent sweet and savory nature of the famous onion stew, making for the perfect meal!  

L'amuse Signature Two-Year Gouda: An Unexpected Marriage

by Sophia Stern

Why we love the cheese 

 It’s rare for a gouda aged for as long as L’Amuse Signature to have such a wonderful texture without compromising flavor. The paste is full of satisfying, crunchy crystals, but isn’t too firm or too dry. The addictive flavors of caramel and butterscotch are balanced with the cheese’s acidity, preventing this gouda from eating too sweet.  

Why we love the wine 

Champalou Vouvray is an elegant and highly drinkable wine. Made by a couple who come from a long lineage of winemakers, this 100% Chenin Blanc Loire Valley wine is acidic and bright, with notes of pear and green apple. There’s just enough earthy complexity to round the wine out, offering a smooth and delicious drinking experience.  

Why we love the pairing 

A white wine and an aged gouda are not the most common pairing, but we promise this really works. The slightly surprising acidity of the gouda mellows the acidity of the Vouvray. The dry wine also rounds out the sweeter notes in the cheese, without erasing them. And most importantly, the body of the wine allows those craveable crystals to continue to crunch.  

What else you should do with it   

Our favorite way to enjoy this gouda is with a drizzle of caramel, preferably the Fat Toad Farm Goat’s Milk Caramel. If you want to go the extra mile, pair a bite of caramel and gouda with a spoonful of your favorite vanilla ice cream. 

The Pairing: Why We Love Brillat Savarin

Why we love the cheese: 

 Beloved triple cream Brillat Savarin has been a staple of our cheese case for as long as we care to remember. The epitome of luxurious, decadent, and delicious, this beauty from Normandy is bold enough to enjoy on its own and easy-going enough to play well with others.

Why we love the wine: 

Three Wine Company’s Faux Pas red blend is light fruity and fresh. An enticing magenta color, this wine is super drinkable and food-friendly with nice acidity and low tannins. 

Why we love this pairing: 

Together, the buttery Brillat and bright red blend bring out the fruitiness in each other, reminiscent of berries and cream. The wine gives longevity to the cheese both texturally and in flavor, while the cheese mellows out some of the sharper edges of the wine. 

What else you should do with it 

Speaking of berries and cream, enjoy your Brillat Savarin and Faux Pas red with your favorite berries for dessert! Raspberries and blueberries go particularly well. If you want to go the extra step, spread some Brillat on a toasted piece of brioche and top with fresh berries and honey. The light and acidic red blend will go perfectly. 

The Pairing: Holiday Edition

The 2022 Holiday editions of The Pairing are here! If you need cheese and wine for your holiday traditions, we've made it as easy as possible. Featuring three holiday cheeses that are only available this time of year, each pairing is balanced, crowd-pleasing and so stinking good. Come pick them up while supplies lasts.

Domaine Lapierre Morgon + Rush Creek Reserve: If you know, you know. A wine with a cult following and a cheese that people wait for all year? Of course they make the perfect pair. If you're looking for a table centerpiece, or just looking for something special to bring to a holiday gathering, this is it.

The Cheese: Rush Creek Reserve Raw Cow - 2 months Dodgeville, Wisconsin

The Wine: Domaine Lapierre Morgon Gamay Beaujolais, France

Why it works: Hailing from a prestigious winery with a devout following, this bold and well-balanced Beaujolais is perfect for Rush Creek Reserve. The wine handles the meaty, smokey notes that come from the spruce bark surrounding the Rush Creek. With just enough body, the wine offers some relief from the richness of the cheese, while still enhancing the creamy quality that makes this cheese so good.

Maison Gilliard 'Les Murettes' + Brabander Reserve: This year's batch of Brabander Reserve is one of the best we've ever had. We've paired it with a really cool wine from Switzerland, that's sure to be a new favorite. This pairing is so playful and fun, we can only describe it as a party.

The Cheese: Brabander Reserve Pasteurized Goat - 18 months Brabant, The Netherlands

The Wine: Maison Gilliard 'Les Murettes' Fendant Valais, Switzerland

Why it works: This super playful pairing is a party to enjoy. Lesser-known, this Swiss wine is bright and acidic, mellowing the sweetness of the extra-aged goat gouda without diminishing what makes the cheese so fun to eat. The crunchy, crystally texture of the gouda is well balanced against the body of the wine, making you want to go back for more and more.

Drew Family Cellars 'Bahl Briney Vineyard' Chardonnay + Comte Sagesse: Yes, Chardonnay for the holidays. So bright, so graceful, and so good together. If you like your cheese buttery and nutty, and your wine delicious and drinkable, you have to give this pairing a try. We're obsessed.

The Cheese: Comté Sagesse Raw Cow - 24 months Jura, France

The Wine: Drew Family Cellars 'Bahl Briney Vineyard'Chardonnay Anderson Valley, California

Why it works: This light, graceful Chardonnay enhances the complexity in this extra-aged Comté by highlighting the nutty, savory qualities of the cheese. The wine also provides a citrusy, acidic finish against the rich and buttery nature of this famous Alpine cheese.

The Pairing: Fresh Mozz and Lambrusco

by Sophia Stern

Late summer: the sun sets after 8pm, tomatoes are in season, and fresh mozzarella is being pulled every Friday and Saturday at the France 44 Cheese counter. In honor of all the things that we love about August, we’ve put together a perfect summer pairing. This week we’re featuring our fresh, house-pulled mozzarella, Heirloom tomatoes, and Piazza Grande Lambrusco so you can enjoy a no-cook dinner with a glass of wine on your front porch until you can’t stand the mosquitos any longer.

If you haven’t had our fresh mozzarella before, this isn’t like the stuff you buy at a grocery story. We pull our mozzarella around 9am. It stays warm, sitting on our counter until it sells out (usually around noon or 1pm). The mozzarella is at its peak the day it’s made and should stay out of the refrigerator. The texture is more pillowy than the low-moisture bricks you can buy off the grocery store shelves. Though delicate and mild, our fresh mozz is rich, dreamy and dynamic, making it easy to demolish a whole ball in one sitting. Our favorite way to enjoy the mozzarella is a classic: Heirloom tomatoes, really good balsamic and olive oil, a few basil leaves and a sprinkle of Maldon salt. 

For the Lambrusco, France 44 Wine Specialist Karina writes 

Piazza Grande is one of our perennial summer crushes. This rosé Lambrusco comes from one of the many cooperative wineries found in Italy's Emilia-Romagna region. It's technically a spumante carbonated wine, giving it a little livelier bubble than a frizzante wine (think Moscato). Made with two different varieties of the Lambrusco grape (Sorbara and Salamino), it's pressed quickly and doesn't see as much skin contact as more traditional red Lambruscos do. (It's also higher quality and much less sugary-sweet than the Lambruscos of the 80s and 90s!) The fact of the matter is that you need a gentle dollop of fruity sweetness to contrast the salty, milky goodness of the mozzarella. And if you throw some delicious balsamic on top of your mozz and tomatoes, the wine's fruitiness matches up perfectly against the sweet tang of the balsamic. All the elements flow together seamlessly, creating one of the best combo bites you'll put in your mouth all summer.

If you want to keep it as simple as fresh mozz and a glass of Piazza Grande, be our guest! If you want to go all the way, the tomatoes add a lovely acidity that balances the milky, richness of the mozz while the fruitiness of the heirlooms plays well with the fruit notes in the Lambrusco. Balsamic vinegar takes everything to the next level. Go for the Olivewood Balsamic for a sweeter, thicker drizzle. Balsamic vinegar is on sale this weekend for 15% off, so now’s the time to stock up. 

The Pairing: Smashburgers and Ogleshield

By Sam Schonberg

For this week’s pairing we are exploring one of the many uses of Ogleshield, a raclette-style cheese from Somerset, England. Ogleshield is only aged three months, lending it a high moisture content and a melt-in-your-mouth texture. While delicious on a cracker or served on a board, it is a phenomenal melter and is highlighted when hit with some heat. Because it is a younger cheese, the milk fats don’t separate when heat is applied. In addition, the raclette style tends to have a slightly lower salt content than a cheese like a cheddar. You can salt both sides of the meat without worrying about blowing out your palette. Finally, although Ogleshield is not aged a particularly long time, it has a well developed flavor that only expands when melted. 

As a whole animal butcher, we developed a House Grind to reflect the quality of animal that we butcher in house. Our 80/20 grind has enough meat to hold together when grilled, but is fatty enough to be flavorful without any additives. Toss on some Ogleshield, and you’ve got a rich burger that is just juicy enough to soak into your bun. Smash the burger (at the start of your cooking cycle!) with a spatula to increase the surface area of the burger itself. More surface area means a crispier crust, but more importantly, more room for cheese. Read up on all the benefits and techniques of smash burgers from the man himself, J. Kenji Lopez-Alt. 
We’ve already devoted space to the decadent pairing of Ogleshield with the Mariposa Red, but it bears repeating that a chillable red is probably the best possible summer burger pairing. Take a big hunk of Ogleshield, eat half while you cook, and put the other half on the burger.

Lobster Rolls and Rosé

by Karina Roe

We're debuting an extra-special, extra-delicious Pairing to celebrate the 4th of July! This weekend, we're pairing one of the tastiest things we produce in the Cheese Shop--our incredible Lobster Roll--with one of the tastiest rosés we sell in the wine shop: Clos Cibonne 'Tentations' from Provence, France. Clos Cibonne is well-known for utilizing an old, nearly-forgotten grape variety called Tibouren, which makes up about 15% of the blend in this particular rosé. Grenache is the star of the show with its perfectly ripe strawberry notes and friendly nature, and is supported by Cinsault and Syrah, along with the Tibouren. This elegant rosé is carefully pressed to give just a hint of ballerina-pink color to the wine, then fermented in stainless steel tanks to preserve its fresh and fruit-driven character.

This unpretentious rosé has long been a staff and customer favorite at France 44 and proves to be a perfect match alongside our Lobster Roll. Sweet, juicy lobster claw meat is folded in with celery, apple chunks, fresh tarragon and chives, and mayo, then piled into a delicious Rose Street Bakery bun. Rosé and lobster are a classic pairing: the fruitiness of the wine meets up with the sweetness of the lobster, but the wine's crisp acidity also cuts through the richness of the lobster. The tanginess of the apple and celery, matched up against the creamy mayo, make this an unforgettable pairing that fires on all cylinders.

In short, we think this is one of the best beverage and food combos we've happened across in a long time. Stop by this weekend to see for yourself--your taste buds will thank you!

The Pairing: Pleasant Ridge Redux

by Sophia Stern

To celebrate the launch of our July 12th, 2021 select batch of Pleasant Ridge Reserve, we’re rerunning our original pairing: Pleasant Ridge and Red Car Chardonnay. However, there are key difference between last year’s pairing and this year’s. First, this selection of Pleasant Ridge has stronger umami qualities reminiscent of Parmigiano-Reggiano. It’s rich with just enough bite to keep you craving more. Second, the wine is a different vintage. Last year we rolled with the 2016 Red Car Chardonnay. We now have the 2018 with totally different tasting notes. This pairing works like it did in 2021, but it’s certainly not the same and nor would we want it to be. 

                These changing variables begin every spring when a group of France 44 employees go to Uplands Cheese in the Driftless Region of eastern Wisconsin. The goal is to pick France 44’s select batch (or two) of Pleasant Ridge Reserve. Each visit involves a tour, seeing the cheesemakers in action, and greeting the cows. The staff sample different wheels of Pleasant Ridge, noting the nuances from month to month, week to week, and even day to day. This batch was chosen for its roasted, savory flavors and ideal, semi-firm, buttery texture

                On the wine front, Red Car Winery champion their location, producing balanced Chardonnays that reflect the environment they are created in. France 44 Wine Specialist Karina Roe writes

Red Car Winery prides themselves on honest wines that reflect vintage and terroir variations... The 2016 bottling of this wine (the original Pairing we did with Pleasant Ridge Reserve) came from a harvest that was just beginning to recover from a significant drought season. The fruit tones were denser and more concentrated, and perhaps because of this Red Car chose to age the wine in French oak for 6 months longer than the wine we are drinking today--the 2018 release. 2018 was fairly perfect as far as weather conditions were concerned, with more consistent rainfall and cool, breezy temperatures. The acidity is brighter, the fruit is less dense, and Red Car highlighted the lifted nature of the 2018 by keeping it in oak for a shorter period of time--10 months in mostly neutral French oak rather than 16 months.

                With a more savory, rich batch of Pleasant Ridge and a lighter, tarter Chardonnay, we’re left with a different pairing experience. The wine allows the cheese to shine more than it did back in 2021. The brightness of the 2018 vintage is a welcome addition against the richness of this year’s select batch. Most importantly, we’re reminded of the unique characteristics that come with small, farm focused products. Every variable effects the end result. It’s a miracle that we ever get good tasting cheese and wine at all. We invite you to enjoy the 2022 rendition of this pairing, maybe considering the joys of inconsistency and that supporting food and wine like these means giving up some control. The cheese and Chardonnay are best together without the harsh chill from the fridge. Allow the wine to breathe in your glass and the cheese to come up to room temperature before diving in. 

The Pairing: Comte Revisited

by Karina Roe

This week we travel back in time to revisit one of our all-time favorite Pairing cheeses: Marcel Petite Comté. This legendary cheese hails from the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region, a large region in eastern France that encompasses not only some of France’s finest cheeses, but also some of the country’s most heralded wines. Marcel Petite ages his wheels of comté in a defunct military bunker that was cut into the side of one of the Jura’s famed limestone hills. This is the perfect setting to age comté: the cool, steady temperatures of the bunker provide an ideal environment for the slow maturation and complex flavor development that we love so much in this cheese.  

But there’s nothing Petite about this Pairing! We matched it up with the mellow, silky tones of the Domaine Carrette Saint-Véran ‘Les Mures’. The nutty notes in the comté melt into the creamy butterscotch flavors of the wine, and a cleansing acidity comes through on the finish to get you geared up for the next bite. This 100% Chardonnay comes wholly from the Les Mures vineyard, allowing the Carrette family to showcase a singular terroir that features clay-limestone soils (perfect for Chardonnay) on steep, north-facing slopes. Oak is used judiciously, so as not to cover up the beautiful fruit and mineral notes that already make this wine sing.