The Pairing: Brabander Reserve + Adelsheim Pinot Noir

by Sophia Stern

Why we love the cheese 

A fan favorite for a reason. Brabander goat gouda is tangy, creamy, savory, and sweet making it the perfect cheese for a crowd. Aged for over 24 months, Brabander Reserve boasts a creamy paste that’s chock full of those desirable crunchy crystals. Fromagerie l’Amuse has done it again, crafting another successful batch of this holiday exclusive. 

Why we love the wine 

A genre defying Willamette Valley Pinot Noir from a legendary, founding Willamette Valley vineyard. This wine is the epitome of what we love in our Oregon Pinots, bursting with juicy raspberries and warm cinnamon. It drinks fresh and smooth. Try serving it with a 30-minute chill to amplify the flavors.  

Why we love the pairing 

The Pinot Noir invigorates the Brabander Reserve. This delicious gouda is rich and intense, but the Adelsheim makes the cheese’s texture far less dense. The wine brings playful acidity and draws out the sweetness from the gouda's creamy paste. The tang of cream from the cheese rounds out the earthier notes of the pinot, without covering them at all. 

What else you should do with it   

If you’re looking for a festive appetizer to serve at a holiday gathering, this pairing would lend itself perfectly to a mushroom toast. Toast some darker bread (like Baker’s Field Table Loaf), cover in sautéed mixed mushrooms seasoned with salt, pepper, and thyme, and grate Brabander Reserve over the top. The earthy, savory, tangy notes of the toast will go perfectly with a bottle of the Adelsheim Pinot Noir.  

Cook like a Cheesemonger: Rush Creek Reserve Bake

by Austin Coe Butler

Rush Creek Reserve is a highly coveted, seasonal cheese made from the raw, autumn milk of cows at the precise moment they transition from fresh pasture to cured hay. This decadent, custard-like cheese is girdled in a band of spruce, which imparts a woodsiness at home in the winter kitchen and at holiday meals. Cheesemaker Andy Hatch was inspired to make Rush Creek Reserve by his time as an apprentice cheesemaker in the Jura region of France where he made Vacherin Mont d’Or, another coveted, seasonal, and spruce wrapped soft cheese. While often compared to Mont d’Or, Rush Creek Reserve is a unique and incredible cheese in its own right.

I’ve written previously about baking your Rush Creek and its place on my Thanksgiving table, but here is a nod to the traditional Mont d’Or bake you’d find people enjoying in the Jura on a special occasion or winter’s night. It’s bound to leave you scraping the last of your Rush Creek from its bark.

1 Rush Creek Reserve

1 garlic clove, minced

3 or 4 springs of hearty, winter herbs like rosemary, thyme, sage, marjoram, or savory, minced

3 teaspoons dry white wine 

1 lb/450 g fingerling potatoes

An assortment of charcuterie like speck, France 44’s house made summer sausage, or Lowry Hill Provisions salami 

Cornichons or other pickles

Good bread like Patisserie 46 Baguette or Baker’s Field Table Loaf, both available at France 44

Preheat your oven to 375º F.

Cut the top off the Rush Creek Reserve and set it aside. Add the garlic and herbs before mixing. Add the wine and cover with the top. Place the Rush Creek on a sheet of tinfoil and wrap the foil around the sides of the cheese. You can make this look as elegant as you’d like. Bake the Rush Creek for 15-20 minutes until hot, but not overcooked and split.

Meanwhile, place the whole, unpeeled potatoes in a pot of cold, salted water and bring to a boil. Drop the heat to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes or until tender. Drain and reserve in the hot pot.

While the Rush Creek bakes, assemble your spread. Slice the bread or tear it apart with your hands. Shingle the speck. Slice the salami. Shake the brine from the cornichons. Serve the potatoes piping hot. Pour yourself a glass of wine.

Once the Rush Creek is ready, serve it immediately with small plates and a single spoon. This is a meal best enjoyed with your hands. There’s nothing quite like the snap of a potato split in two and dipped into bubbling cheese.

The Roast Quartet

by Nick Mangigian

With Thanksgiving only a week away, it's official: we're in feast season. There is no better balance between abundance, deliciousness, and sneaky economy than putting an awesome roast in the oven for your guests.

The holy quartet of roasts, in our opinion, is as follows: 

Prime Rib: The most decadent of them all. We recommend about one pound per person if opting for bone-in, and we are always happy to take the bones off and tie them back on (a process known as "Chicago-ing") if you ask. The absolute best way to cook this is a reverse sear, which takes time but is foolproof if you have an instant read thermometer. Our dedicated meatmongers would love to talk you through this. The important thing to remember is that medium rare, or even medium, beats rare on prime rib-- you want that fat to render!

Filet Mignon: The king of steaks, and deceptively easy. If you have a gas grill, there is no better way to cook one of those, although the oven/broiler combination is a good one too. 8oz of meat per person is a good rule of thumb, and you can either reverse sear this, or start it off hot to get nice color and then finish at lower heat until you've reached a final temp of 130 for medium rare.

Chicken: For three adults, or two adults and two kids, a roast chicken is a wonderful, comforting meal, and you can move mountains with two chickens. About an hour and 10 minutes in the oven at 450 is a bulletproof way to get crispy, golden skin and succulent meat that temps at 160.

Turkey: Everybody fears the biggest, baddest bird of them all (it was almost our national bird!), but turkey is really just a massive chicken. You'll want to treat it more gently to get it up to temp, and then blast it at the end to brown the skin.

The three biggest favors you can do with yourself on any roast, though, are the following:

  • An instant-read thermometer is your friend! If you have one of these, and the internet, there is never any doubt about what temp you want to cook your beautiful piece of meat to.

  • A preparatory dry brine makes a MASSIVE difference on how juicy and delicious your roast will turn out. As a rule of thumb: ¾ tsp of salt per pound of meat, and half that amount of black pepper, will lead to a memorably awesome roast.

  • Let the roast rest! The bigger the piece of meat, the longer the rest, but generally speaking 10 minutes is a good amount to keep things juicy. You get about 7 or 8 degrees of carryover cooking during the rest period, so it's important to pull your roast off the heat before it's reached your goal temperature, and to let it rest far away from the heat source (ie, not on the grill or in a turned-off oven).

Roast easy, friends, and as always-- we are glad to help talk you through your next cooking adventure!

The Pairing: Rush Creek + Voirin-Jumel Champagne

by Sophia Stern

Why we love the cheese 

Showstopping, festive, satisfying and delicious, Rush Creek Reserve is what holiday dreams are made of. A spruce-wrapped, raw milk cheese that’s divinely custardy and fascinatingly savory. We’ve waxed poetically about this cheese so many times. If you don’t believe us, you’re just going to have to try it for yourself.  

Why we love the wine 

An incredible wine with amazing flavor at a frankly unbelievable price. True, delicious Champagne from a small producer focusing on the big three Champagne grapes: Pinot Noir, Chardonay, and Pinot Meunier. Roasty toasty notes of hazelnut, fresh almonds, and just baked pastry jump out of the glass. This sparkler is everything you want out of Champagne and perfect for celebrations and casual indulgences alike.  

Why we love the pairing 

Texture, texture, texture.  The liveliness of the bubble structure in the Champagne is an excellent partner to the dense, rich, enveloping Rush Creek. It offers some relief, but the bubbles also invigorate the cheese, opening the texture up and allowing more nuanced flavors to break through the richness.  

What else you should do with it   

Rush Creek doesn’t need any twists; just embrace the ritual of enjoying this once-a-year-icon. Share it with your people (maybe at Thanksgiving or Christmas), set the Rush Creek out of the fridge six or more hours before serving so it’s fully room temperature, slice the top off, and dive in. Pour everyone a glass of the Voirin-Jumel and watch the cheese disappear.  

Meet the Monger: Sara

So how’d you find yourself working at France 44?

Many years ago, I worked in restaurants. I always worked front of house — serving, hosting. Then I joined the corporate world for six years working in project management and software development. The corporate life just wasn’t for me, and I wanted to get back into the food scene in some way. I saw that France 44 was hiring and was excited by the opportunities to learn here. I knew about France 44 because I frequented the St. Paul Cheese Shop when I was a student at Macalester.

What have you learned working here? What has surprised you?

I’ve been so impressed with the size and scope of the operation here. When you just walk in the door, you don’t see how many people work to make this place possible every day — the kitchen staff, the mongers, there are so many moving pieces. I’ve loved learning more about the sourcing of cheese & eat, the grocery buying, all the thought put into what we decide to put on our shelves.

Favorite cheese so far?

Brabander Goat Gouda.

Favorite sandwich?

The Spicy Monger has been my favorite ever since my days getting sandwiches at the St. Paul Cheese Shop.

What do you like to do when you’re not at work?

I love to be outside, walk my dog, bike around the likes, read, cook, daydream about home improvement projects…

Ok last question - It’s your day off and you’re going out to eat. Where are you going?

For breakfast, definitely Our Kitchen. For dinner or drinks, Petit Leon. And I also do love Good Times pizza.

Cook Like a Monger: Pan Seared Duck Breast with Couscous

by Matt Gruber

Quack quack, quack quack quack honk... Ahem, excuse me I forget sometimes not everyone can read duck - but duck is exactly what we are cooking this week. Never in my adult life did I think I'd return to duck. It was a dish served to a young me, beer can style, shotgun pellets on the side. Absolutely horrified and having an immature palate I had no idea what I was consuming. This was all just normal cabin life at the time; you know, ants in the syrup are just added protein vibes. I always tell this story and it is funny to look back on, but I figured duck was spoiled for me forever.

Flash forward to a little local butcher shop sourcing humanely raised, locally sourced, delicious duck (hold the shotgun pellets) - my mind was changed.

It's speculated that long before everyone's favorite dinner option was chicken, duck was the real star. The Chinese domesticated ducks some 4000 years ago and started the legacy of this delicious dinner option which now offers so many different directions, spins, and takes on countless dishes. Trying to not do duck à l'orange as a tired cliché of the 1960's, I wanted to still incorporate orange, but add a little rosemary and make a nice finishing sauce to add on top while keeping the duck simple with salt and pepper. To accompany this, I've also whipped up a side of Les Moulins Mahjoub hand rolled couscous with almonds and cranberry. A perfect dish for a perfect fall day.

1 Duck breast
1 knob of butter
1/2 cup Dried almonds
1/2 cup Dried cranberries
1 cup couscous
1 1/2 cup chicken stock
for couscous
3/4 cup chicken stock for sauce
1 tbsp cumin
1 tbsp cinnamon
1 orange plus zest
2 sprigs rosemary
1 tbsp onion,
minced

Sauce
Add 3/4 cup chicken stock, knob of butter, juice of one large orange plus zest, and rosemary sprigs to the saucepan and bring to a boil. Once a rolling boil is reached, reduce heat and simmer until thick. (should thicken out by the end of all the cooking)

Couscous

Lightly toast almonds, cranberries, and onions prior to adding in chicken stock and bringing to a boil. Add in 1 cup couscous, slightly cover and reduce heat- wait until couscous has absorbed all the chicken stock.

Duck Breast

Start your duck breast skin side down on a cold cast iron or your favorite heavy bottom pan, heat set to medium/medium-low. Cook for 5-6 minutes or until golden crispy skin. Flip over and cook for 2 minutes, remove from pan and let rest for another 3 minutes.

Plate and enjoy!

Gotthelf Slow Food Emmentaler

By Austin Coe Butler

Weighing in at a truly colossal 225 pounds, the Gotthelf Slow Food Emmentaler is by far the biggest cheese to have graced our shop. That’s almost three times as heavy as a wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano or Gruyère. It rightfully deserves its stately place in our cheese vault that you can see upon entering the shop. But what’s even more impressive than its stature is its fidelity to traditional practices that make it a delicious piece of living history.

One of the immediate distinguishing features of the cheese is the gorgeous silhouette on top that recounts the tale Die Käserei der Vehfreude, or “The Cheese Factory in Vehfreude,” by Jeremias Gotthelf, a Swiss pastor and writer, whose name the cheese bears in his honor. In the story, the fictional village of Vehfreude is badly in need of a school, but instead constructs a cheese factory to compete economically with its neighboring villages. Vehfreude is set in the Emmen valley (Emmentaler literally means to “someone or something from the Emmen valley) and the cheese the villagers make is, naturally, Emmentaler. Among the comic episodes are market riots over the price of milk, a young woman who believes she is practicing witchcraft being scared straight by a villager dressed as Beelzebub, and the story Felix and Änneli, two star crossed lovers of differing classes. It’s a tale of the greed of man and the triumph of love. And also cheese! The wheel also carries details of the heraldic bear of Bern, Edelweisses, and the Swiss cross at the base of a Blockbau, a traditional Emmental farmhouse. Circling the wheel is a line of cows being led by a cowherd symbolizing the transhumance to the Alpine dairy.

Husband and wife Bernard Meier and Marlies Zaugg make Gotthelf Emmentaler just like the villagers of Vehfreude did back in the 17th century. Isolated in the mountains of their small village, Hüpfenboden, they make just two wheels of cheese a day. That 225 pounds of cheese is condensed from more than 1,100 liters of milk(!). It’s made using kettle whey cultures, wherein the whey from the previous day’s batch of cheese is added to the present day’s milk, carrying over the cultures (like a sourdough starter). Once the cheese is made, it’s taken to Gourmino’s cellars to age under the watchful eyes of the affineurs, tending to the wheels by washing and flipping them. In recognition of the traditional practices this cheese follows, the Slow Food Presidia bestowed an award on traditional Emmentaler.

The struggle to open a 225 pound wheel of cheese is one of the greatest a cheesemonger can face. Certain exigencies immediately presented themselves and could not be ignored. First of all, the cheese was too large to store in any of our refrigerators, which meant that after a day of tempering, we needed to break it into more manageable pieces. The weight meant that this cheese had to be handled by three people, which was further complicated when we realized we could not get it through the door to the cheese shop! Instead we had to right the wheel up on its rounded edge, precariously balancing it on a flatbed to pull it into the shop, and during our first attempt to do this it stubbornly rolled to the floor with a colossal thud. Cutting a cheese this big is also tricky. Driving a chisel knife through the cheese require my full weight, and, normally, after this initial cut a wire could be dragged through it to easily split it. However, we were out of our larger, longer wires, so it had to be cut with the chisel knife all the way through, a more “historic” way to cut a historic cheese. But as soon as the cheese was cracked an incredible smell rose up and the “eyes” or holes in the cheese begins to “cry.”

What does a two hundred pound wheel of cheese taste like? Rich brown butter, toasted cashew, wheat bread, a fresh potato loaf. Even for those that dislike Emmentaler, Gotthelf lacks that distinct “Swiss-y” flavor that is imparted by the Proprionibacteria, the bacteria responsible for producing the signature “eyes” or holes in Emmentaler. Many of us have been exposed to bad “Swiss” cheese as a result of the nefarious business practices of the Swiss cheese Cartels, and the imagine of a deli slice of pallid, plasticine “Swiss” cheese comes to mind. It’s pleasantly surprising then that Gotthelf Emmental is dense, with a cashew-like creaminess and studded with tyrosine crystals while still having the pliability that makes it a phenomenal melter. It is one of the finest expressions of Emmentaler, and an urgent reminder of what makes real Emmentaler such a special cheese whose traditions are worth preserving in the era of globalization.

This promotion couldn’t come at a better time—last week, Gotthelf Emmentaler won a Super Gold at the World Champion Cheese Competition in Trondheim! Stop into the shop to try the best “Swiss” cheese in the world!

Cook like a Cheesemonger: Bavette with Roquefort Sauce and Fingerling Potatoes

by Austin Coe Butler

Bavette is a little known cut of beef here in the states. It’s similar to a flank steak in that it comes from the bottom sirloin, but it’s a bit thicker and more marbled, giving it a deeper, beefy flavor and remarkable juiciness. With this in mind, some believe that butchers conspire to keep the steak for themselves, which has given bavette the reputation as “the butcher’s cut.” It’s rich, beefy flavor can hold up to a stronger cheese like Roquefort. This recipe is a combination of two classics, the French bistro classic steak frites, which often features bavette, and the American steak house staple of steak and blue cheese.

4 tbsp beef tallow or vegetable oil

2 tbsp unsalted butter

12 oz shallots, thinly sliced

11 oz fingerling potatoes

1 lb Bavette

1 sprig of rosemary

2 garlic cloves, crushed

125ml dry red wine like Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir

4 oz Vermont Creamery crème fraîche

4 oz Maison Carles Roquefort, crumbled

2 tbsp beef stock 

1 tbsp chives

Salt and pepper to taste

Season both sides of the bavette generously with salt and pepper. Allow it to temper while you prepare the rest of your ingredients.

Slice the fingerlings in half and place them in a pot of cold, salted water. Bring the pot to a boil then drop the heat to medium and cook for 8 minutes. Strain the potatoes and reserve.

Meanwhile, in a pan over medium heat, caramelize the shallots in a tablespoon of oil and a knob of butter. Reduce the heat and sweat, stirring often, until caramelized, about 20 minutes. If the shallots look like they are sticking or scorching, add a splash of water to release them. Despite what the internet may tell you, there’s no shortcut to jammy, caramelized alliums, so pour yourself a glass of wine, put on your favorite podcast, and enjoy your time babying those shallots.

Finish the potatoes. Heat two tablespoons of oil in a pan over medium high heat. Add the potatoes and cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally until lightly crisp and golden. 

To cook the bavette, place it in a pan over medium high heat with a tablespoon of oil and cook for 4-5 minutes on one side depending on its thickness. Flip the bavette and then add in the 2 tablespoons of butter, garlic, and herbs, and baste the steak for another 4-5 minutes. Remove the steak from the pan when its temperature reads 10º under your preferred doneness, for example, if you prefer medium rare you would pull the steak at 125º and allow the residual heat to carry the steak to 130–135º. Allow it to rest for a minimum of 5 minutes.

To make the Roquefort sauce, begin by removing the excess fat, rosemary, and garlic from the pan. Over medium heat, deglaze the pan with the wine and scrape up the fond, those crispy, browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Add the stock and then reduce the liquid by half. On low heat, add in the crème fraîche and Roquefort, stirring until the cheese is incorporated. Add the chives and cut the heat.

To serve, cut the bavette against the grain. Plate with a the caramelized shallots and fingerlings. Serve with a generous spoonful of the Roquefort sauce. And, of course, if you have any leftover Roquefort you can crumble it on top of the steak. Bon appétite! 

The Pairing: Chällerhocker + Roterfaden Terraces White

by Sophia Stern

Why we love the cheese 

This is the first cheese I ever learned how to sell when I was an 18-year-old cheesemonger! Iconic for its creepy ‘cellar dweller’ logo, Chällerhocker has gained international fame and is a true crowd favorite at our cheese counter. Try it and you’ll understand why. A Swiss original by Walter Rass, this creamy, richly nutty cheese from the Swiss Alps honors the traditions of Alpine cheesemaking that we’ve come to know and love. It is decadent and delicious, with depth that makes you crave piece after piece. The fresh wheels are washed in wine and spices and then aged for a minimum of 10 months in Alpine cellars. The resulting flavors are intensely umami, full of heavy cream, garlic, and beef broth 

Why we love the wine 

Roterfaden makes this white blend from ancient Germany terraces, a feature so significant to the final product, they named the wine after it. This “Terraces” white is bright, refreshing, and citrusy and is made up of Reisling, Weissburgunder, and Kerner. Producers Hannes Hoffmann and Olympia Samara biodynamically farm 4 hectares of grapes on steep, terraced vineyards of pure limestone. All work in the vineyards and cellar is done by hand. Winemaking is minimalist: native yeast fermentation, aging in old barrels, no fining or filtration and small additions of sulfur prior to bottling. Flavors of orchard fruits mixed with Meyer lemon are supported by a minerality that carries this wine to a dry and refreshing finish. 

Why we love the pairing 

Challerhocker is very rich and very flavorful, so the crisp acidity in the wine is much needed. The Roterfaden has enough acid to cut through the decadence of the Chällerhocker, while still letting both cheese and wine shine. The green notes in the wine also highlight some of the allium notes in the cheese, drawing out roasted garlic and caramelized onions from the Chällerhocker. The sweetness in the cheese is balanced with the minerality from the wine, offering a delightful and crushable combo. 

What else you should do with it  

Make a loaded baked potato! Use the Chällerhocker as your grated cheese topping. Roast some Russet potatoes in the oven and load them up with whatever you like, like sour cream, chives, crispy bacon, but most importantly grated Chällerhocker. The wine will both complement all the savory notes in your dinner and cut through the richness with its acidity. 

Cook like a Monger: Rarebit with Hafod Cheddar and a Shaved Fennel and Apple Salad

by Austin Butler

Hafod (pronounced “Havod”) is a feral little truckle of Cheddar made on Bwlchwernen Fawr in western Wales. It’s the perfect cheese to enjoy in that pub classic known as a Welsh rarebit, not only because of its provenance, but because of its flavors. This wheel of Hafod is beautifully cracked with blue veining, adding a rich umami to the smoky lard and Cheddar tang I pick up in the cheese. I enjoy having a rarebit alongside a salad, something to cut through the unctuousness with some herbaceous crunch. As apples are coming into season alongside walnuts, I can’t think of a better salad than one of shaved fennel, orchard apples, and walnuts with a tart and sweet dressing of apple cider vinegar and honey.

Makes 6 Welsh Rarebits

For the Welsh rarebit:

A generous knob (about a tablespoon) of butter

1 tablespoon flour

1 cup/200 mL beer like Samuel Smith’s Nut Brown Ale or Guinness

1 tablespoon of mustard, either powdered Coleman’s or Dijon

½ teaspoon cayenne

2 tablespoons Col. Pabst’s Worcester Sauce

450 g Hafod Cheddar or other mature, strong cheese, grated

Crusty bread like Bakersfield’s Good ‘Wich of the North

For the salad:

1 small tart apple 

1 fennel bulb

30 g walnuts

25 g olive oil

25 g ACV

16 g honey

2 g salt

In a saucepan over low heat melt the butter. Add the flour to the pot and stir continuously to form a roux. Toast the roux until blonde and fragrant, about two minutes. Slowly add in the beer while stirring to prevent lumps. Add the mustard, cayenne, and Worcestershire sauce and bring to a simmer. Add the Cheddar a handful at a time. Adding the cheese too quickly will cause it to split, so be patient, this can take a few minutes. Once a smooth sauce has formed, reserve it in a small bowl and cool until pastelike.

Toast the bread. No floppy rarebits here, please.
Heap a few generous spoonfuls of the thick, velvety cheese sauce right to the edge of the bread and broil it until smoking, bubbly, and browned. You want a few crispy edges to form.

Allow the rarebits to cool for a few minutes, then make a crosshatched pattern on the top and shake a few drops (or “lashings” as the Brits say) of Worcestershire on. Serve immediately with a pint. Top with a fried egg to make a “buck rarebit.”

For the salad, slice the fennel and apple thinly, preferably on a mandoline. Roughly chop the walnuts and add them to the fennel and apples. Dress with olive oil, vinegar, honey, and salt. Toss to combine, including any fennel fronds that may have come alongside the bulbs. You can make this salad in advance if you withhold the salt. I quite like this salad throughout the autumn, especially alongside pork chops and a celeriac purée.

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