Rose Veal

by Benjamin Roberts

A number of years ago a local farmer named Tom Hunter approached us about selling veal he was raising. Up until meeting Tom, we had not considered selling veal, as it didn’t fit our model of ethically raised meat. No need to recount the horrors of commercial veal production in this space, the internet will be happy to inform you of the unconscionable treatment of calves raised for veal.

Tom presented a much different idea of veal—a traditional method which allows the calf access to pasture in addition to its mother’s milk. Rose veals presents much more like grass fed beef than the ultra white confinement veal that most folks are used to. We covet this protein for it’s deep, complex flavor as well as it’s beautiful tenderness.

Each year Tom’s retirement project weighs on him a little more and he suggests this year might be the last. We will enjoy this incredible treat for as long as possible, as it really is one of the truest expressions of care for an animal that we can provide to our customers.

If you’re interested in learning much, much more about rose veal, click HERE for a wonderful, in depth exploration.

The Pairing: Brabander Reserve + Adelsheim Pinot Noir

by Sophia Stern

Why we love the cheese 

A fan favorite for a reason. Brabander goat gouda is tangy, creamy, savory, and sweet making it the perfect cheese for a crowd. Aged for over 24 months, Brabander Reserve boasts a creamy paste that’s chock full of those desirable crunchy crystals. Fromagerie l’Amuse has done it again, crafting another successful batch of this holiday exclusive. 

Why we love the wine 

A genre defying Willamette Valley Pinot Noir from a legendary, founding Willamette Valley vineyard. This wine is the epitome of what we love in our Oregon Pinots, bursting with juicy raspberries and warm cinnamon. It drinks fresh and smooth. Try serving it with a 30-minute chill to amplify the flavors.  

Why we love the pairing 

The Pinot Noir invigorates the Brabander Reserve. This delicious gouda is rich and intense, but the Adelsheim makes the cheese’s texture far less dense. The wine brings playful acidity and draws out the sweetness from the gouda's creamy paste. The tang of cream from the cheese rounds out the earthier notes of the pinot, without covering them at all. 

What else you should do with it   

If you’re looking for a festive appetizer to serve at a holiday gathering, this pairing would lend itself perfectly to a mushroom toast. Toast some darker bread (like Baker’s Field Table Loaf), cover in sautéed mixed mushrooms seasoned with salt, pepper, and thyme, and grate Brabander Reserve over the top. The earthy, savory, tangy notes of the toast will go perfectly with a bottle of the Adelsheim Pinot Noir.  

Cook like a Cheesemonger: Rush Creek Reserve Bake

by Austin Coe Butler

Rush Creek Reserve is a highly coveted, seasonal cheese made from the raw, autumn milk of cows at the precise moment they transition from fresh pasture to cured hay. This decadent, custard-like cheese is girdled in a band of spruce, which imparts a woodsiness at home in the winter kitchen and at holiday meals. Cheesemaker Andy Hatch was inspired to make Rush Creek Reserve by his time as an apprentice cheesemaker in the Jura region of France where he made Vacherin Mont d’Or, another coveted, seasonal, and spruce wrapped soft cheese. While often compared to Mont d’Or, Rush Creek Reserve is a unique and incredible cheese in its own right.

I’ve written previously about baking your Rush Creek and its place on my Thanksgiving table, but here is a nod to the traditional Mont d’Or bake you’d find people enjoying in the Jura on a special occasion or winter’s night. It’s bound to leave you scraping the last of your Rush Creek from its bark.

1 Rush Creek Reserve

1 garlic clove, minced

3 or 4 springs of hearty, winter herbs like rosemary, thyme, sage, marjoram, or savory, minced

3 teaspoons dry white wine 

1 lb/450 g fingerling potatoes

An assortment of charcuterie like speck, France 44’s house made summer sausage, or Lowry Hill Provisions salami 

Cornichons or other pickles

Good bread like Patisserie 46 Baguette or Baker’s Field Table Loaf, both available at France 44

Preheat your oven to 375º F.

Cut the top off the Rush Creek Reserve and set it aside. Add the garlic and herbs before mixing. Add the wine and cover with the top. Place the Rush Creek on a sheet of tinfoil and wrap the foil around the sides of the cheese. You can make this look as elegant as you’d like. Bake the Rush Creek for 15-20 minutes until hot, but not overcooked and split.

Meanwhile, place the whole, unpeeled potatoes in a pot of cold, salted water and bring to a boil. Drop the heat to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes or until tender. Drain and reserve in the hot pot.

While the Rush Creek bakes, assemble your spread. Slice the bread or tear it apart with your hands. Shingle the speck. Slice the salami. Shake the brine from the cornichons. Serve the potatoes piping hot. Pour yourself a glass of wine.

Once the Rush Creek is ready, serve it immediately with small plates and a single spoon. This is a meal best enjoyed with your hands. There’s nothing quite like the snap of a potato split in two and dipped into bubbling cheese.