by Sophia Stern
In Piedmont, right where the mountains meet the hills, isolated villages have produced fresh, creamy cheeses, referred to as Robiola, since at least the 15th century. Robiola is a traditional Italian cheese, classically made with the milk of goats grazing on the hilly countryside. Because Robiola is usually only a few days old, the cheese has a reputation for being extraordinarily runny and soft, with nuanced notes of Piedmont’s native grasses, herbs, and flowers. Today, a beautiful twist on the classic Robiola is lovingly and expertly crafted by a family who’s been in the cheesemaking game since 1881. Cheesemakers Caseificio dell’Alta Langa have opted to make their Robiola Bosina with cow and sheep milk, creating a buttery, sweet, luscious softie perfect for sharing with others. Robiola Bosina’s distinct square shape features a thin rind and a mild yet intriguing paste that is as silky as can be. For the pairing, we’ve gone with a Lambrusco effervescent enough to break through Robiola Bosina’s creaminess and just tart enough to balance the rich cheese without washing it away.
Robiola Bosina is an excellent example of what happens when tradition and innovation meet. Although the cheesemakers of Robiola Bosina use modern technology, their dedication to local tradition keeps their cheese authentic and delicious. Alta Langa prioritizes small batch production, high quality dairy, and local history in their cheesemaking. They also credit the land they operate on for the excellence of their products, expressing gratitude for the steep countryside, far from commercialized areas, for keeping their traditions alive and free from contamination. Slightly unconventional, Robiola Bosina isn’t made with any goat milk. Goats don’t produce that much dairy, so Caseificio dell’Alta Langa uses their high quality sheep and cow milk supply to make their version of this Italian classic. When Robiola Bosina is at its youngest, it’s a milky butter bomb with mild floral notes. After a few weeks, Robiola Bosina becomes a little earthier. Aromas of hay, ranging from sweet to musky, start to develop. At any stage, this cheese must be eaten at room temperature or all the nuanced flavors will be overshadowed by the fridge and the texture will be tight instead of ooey and relaxed.
To go with this rich square of creamy goodness, we’ve picked a loveable Lambrusco from Emilia-Romagna. Chiarli Vecchia Modena Lambrusco is grown in fertile mixed loam soils and made with 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara grapes, a thinner skinned varietal. This combination produces a delicate, light bodied wine with depth and intrigue. The lighter Lambrusco style pairs perfectly with the Robiola Bosina’s delicate flavors, but the bubbles keep up with the rich texture of the young, soft cheese. Pick up some of our featured Red Table salamis to go with this summery pairing to be transported to the Italian countryside.
Tip: Don’t be intimidated by the unusual topper to this bottle. This wine uses a clamp to keep the cork on, rather than a more traditional cork cage. To open - stick the knife of your wine opener (or a strong butter knife) between the clamp and cork, then twist to pry it off. Keep your thumb over the cork while doing so to prevent unintended projectiles!